modern asmara in picture

history of asmara

Although it would be easy to think of Asmara, the Eritrean capital, solely as an Italian built colonial city, its origins actually reach back some 700 years. Originally, it is said, there were four clans living in the Asmara area on the Kebessa Plateau: the Gheza Gurtom, the Gheza Shelele, the Gheza Serenser and Gheza Asmae. Encouraged by their women, the men united the four clans and defeated the bandits who preyed on the area. After the victory, a new name was given to the place, Arbaete Asmara which literally means, in the Tigrinya language, "the four are united." Eventually Arbaete was dropped and it has been called Asmara, though there is still a zone called Arbaete Asmara. Another legend tells that in this region the Queen of Sheba gave birth to the son of Solomon, Menelik I.




Asmara was made the capital city of colonial Eritrea in preference to Massawa by Governor Martini in 1897. The city therefore bears many traces of the Italian colonial area: in its infrastructure, its architecture and some culinary traditions. Asmara is by far the largest city in Eritrea, with a population of some 500,000. Asmara sits atop (2,350m) the Eritrean highlands on the eastern edge of the escarpment.
Unlike many of the other towns in Eritrea it is relatively undamaged, the Ethiopian forces having fled the city without fighting a full-scale battle at the end of the war. Under thirty years of Ethiopian occupation, the city was allowed to deteriorate, but it still retains its essential beauty and since coming under Eritrean control in 1991 it has been undergoing a rapid improvement in infrastructure, building repairs and repainting.





Starting from 1999, I visited Asmara on a yearly basis, and I walked through the city almost every day. I experienced its beauty, both its tranquility and its activity, the hospitality and the friendliness of its people. I have tried to catch the images of these walking tours in a set of 200 pictures and a brief description, as a tourist, for future tourists and visitors to Asmara Eritrea.
© 1999 - 2007 - Hans van der Splinter

Travel in Massawa Eritrea - Photo Gallery ...

Massawa - History
Massawa's early history is rather obscure. Mentioned by the Arab geographer Al Yaquabi in the 9th century it is thought that it first became a significant port in the 7th century after the decline of the ancient Axumite port of Adulis, assuming the latter's role as the major outlet for trade between Ethiopia and Yemen. In the same century, after the death of the Prophet in 632 A.D. the rise of Islam had a considerable impact on the African coast of the Red Sea and was to play an important part in the history and culture of Massawa.
As early as the 8th century the new religion was established in the coastal region and the Dahlak Islands and by the 10th century most of the population of the city were Muslims. Three of Africa's most ancient mosques in Massawa survive and are in daily use.
By the end of the 14th century, Massawa was part of the main gateways for African trade and a meeting place for people of many races. The Venetians, also great traders, knew of the city by the 14th century and the 16th century saw the arrival of Europeans in considerable numbers, notably the Portuguese who left a number of accounts of its beauty, vitality and wealth.
However, it was the arrival of the Ottoman Turks, who finally succeeded seizing the city in 1557, that was to have the greatest impact on both its culture and architecture still apparent today. They continued to hold the city for three centuries and established a successful relationship with the Ethiopian Emperors at Gondar who were prepared to pay them heavy taxes in order to have access to the coast and its trade. Ethiopian slaves were particularly prized and thousands were sent to Arabia, the Persian Gulf and even to China. Commodities of every kind; hides, butter, gum, gold, senna, musk, ivory, coffee, wax, mules, honey, pepper, pearls and salt all passed through the warehouses of Massawa.
Turkish domination only came to an end in the mid-19th century when they were forced to cede to the Egyptians who were involved in the struggle of the European nation for influence in Africa.
Although the Egyptian occupation of Massawa was relatively brief, from 1846 to 1885, (following the death of the Mahdi and General Gordon at Khartoum in 1884), it left a lasting legacy of buildings and public works. Of the various administrations the most remarkable was that of Munzinger Pasha who built the present Governor's palace, constructed the elevated causeways linking Massawa to Taulud Island and the latter to the mainland, and brought fresh water in to the old city by means of a aqueduct. This extraordinary man, a Swiss adventurer, had first arrived in Massawa in 1854 as the French consular agent, was back again in 1865 as a British agent and political advisor to Napier's expedition against the Emperor Theodore at Magdala and finally in 1872 working for the Egyptians he occupied the town and was appointed Governor.
After the expulsion of the Egyptian regime the complex international struggle for the control of the Port was resolved when the Italians, with the connivance of the British, occupied Massawa in 1885 and remained in control until ousted by the British in 1941.
Anxious to establish their new empire the Italians embarked on a massive building programme which continued even when they removed their government from Massawa and established Asmara as their new capital in 1897.
The city and its commerce flourished but two earthquakes, one in the 1890's and another in 1921, caused enormous damage to its infrastructure. Fortunately a plan for the demolition of the old town and its total reorganization on the basis of a regular grid was abandoned. The layout of the town remained much as it always had been following the old plot lines with blocks of houses and buildings separated by small clearings and narrow alley ways that radiate from the central square. The square was for many years known as the Piazza degli Incendi after the catastrophic fire of 1885. The reconstruction of the buildings was largely carried out using the coral stone, for centuries the prevailing material of the area. Many Turk/Egyptian features were retained; carved lintels and window frames, doorways with tri-lobate arches and the distinctive "masharabiyyas", the projecting trellised balconies designed to protect women from the gaze of passers by, continued the traditional appearance of the central area around the old covered market. At the same time the more recent buildings along the waterfront were rebuilt maintaining the original appearance but designed to withstand further seismic shocks. These great palaces now restored yet again after the recent conflict are reminiscent of Venice, especially the massive Hotel Savoia with its 100 feet long gallery overlooking the harbour like the Doge's Palace guarding the entrance to the Canale Grande.
In the 1930's building continued along the western shore of Massawa Island in the modern style, often incorporating traditional Turk/Egyptian features and techniques to combat the heat. A particularly interesting development surviving from this period is the lido, with its salt water bathing pools and open air cinema, now being revived as a lively modern club.
In the colonial period as now Taulud Island was the administrative centre. With its neat rows of one and two storey villas and wide straight streets it has a very different atmosphere from Massawa Island. Here again the area along the waterfront was badly damaged in the recent war but much of it has already been restored. At the end of the causeway from the mainland in front of the Orthodox Cathedral starts the memorial to the Eritrean Struggle, three burnt out tanks which led the final assault on Massawa in 1990, a symbol of defiance and freedom.
Now it is to be hoped that with the termination of the present conflict the mayor and municipality will be able to implement their visionary schemes for the regenerated Massawa.
On Massawa Island, due to its long and complex history and the various calamities that have occurred it is sometimes difficult to discern the age or origin of a particular building and cultural diversity make it an exciting place to visit and to explore. Plans to restrict the height of buildings to three storeys, close scrutiny and control of restoration techniques and further development and the proposal to pedestrianise the narrow streets promise to retain the street life and historic atmosphere of this very special section of the city.
On Taulud modern offices are already going up to accommodate the expanding business of the region and eventually the old railway station may come to life again when the rebuilding of the line from Massawa to Asmara is completed. The devastated Red Sea Hotel, scene of many glamorous occasions in 1960's and 1970's, is ready to reopen. The more modest Central Hotel has been modernised and reopened and the Dahlak Hotel opposite the Governor's Palace is also to be renovated, all providing first class accommodation for visitors. The Melotti Villa built on the promontory, now like a glamorous ghost of a 60's film set, will ultimately become the state guest house.
On the mainland an impressive housing programme is already underway with new villas and blocks of flats under construction. The planned new deepwater harbour will eventually provide much needed opportunities for employment and open up Eritrea's tourist trade.
For centuries foreigners have come to Massawa to exploit it. Now tourists come to experience its historic treasures and enjoy the beaches of Gurgusum or to explore the bird and marine life of the Dahlak Islands and the newly independent citizens can at last benefit from their own city.
The magical beauty of the old Massawa and the dynamic possibilities of the new make it a site of international cultural significance and concern deserving to be universally recognised as one of the great cities of the world.



















The road from Asmara to Massawa in Semhar province offers many scenic panoramas along its twists and turns. You can see Debre Bizen, the famous Orthodox monastery, from the road. You will pass through the town of Ghinda and a major citrus fruit production area.
Massawa became an urban center in ancient times. It is the largest natural deep water port on the Red Sea. If Asmara is an "Italian" city, Massawa is a Turk-Egyptian one. The city is divided into three parts: Batsa, Twalet, and the mainland or Idaga. The old town and port are on the island of Batsa. This is joined to Twalet by a causeway. Another causeway connects Twalet to the mainland.
Coral blocks, carved stone lintels, and roshans (wooden windows which extend outwards into the street) predominate in Batsa's old town. The architecture reflects the impact of Turkish and Egyptian rule from 1500's until the late 1800's. The city was badly damaged by the Ethiopian bombing and shelling from its liberation by the EPLF in February 1990 until the liberation of all of Eritrea in May 1991. Nevertheless, a stroll through this area is still pleasure for the eyes. One can see the remains of a wooden roof covering one of the streets. The main mosque, Imam Hanbeli, is largely intact and there are many other mosques from various periods. Many of the city's restaurants and coffee shops are in Batsa so you can periodically rest your feet and enjoy some refreshment. Small boats will take you from Batsa to Sheikh Said Island (Isola Verde) to the southwest. It is a favourite spot for picnics. The Ministry of Marine Resources and some private business people offer boats for rental.
Twalet Island is to a greater extent a mixture of Turk-Egyptian and Italian architecture. The Ghibi or palace is near the causeway to Batsa. The foundations are from the 1500's but the building has been restored numerous times since then. It was badly damaged during the independence struggle and is in need of restoration again. The Port Club is open to the general public. The complex includes a restaurant with both indoor and outdoor seating, a small library and museum, and some sports facilities.
The airport and the main market are on the mainland directly across the Twalet causeway. Beyond the airport at Hitumlo is the tomb of Hashim el Mirgani. North of the causeway is an industrial area. The salt flats and the cement factory are located here. Gergussum beach to the north of Massawa on the mainland offers lots of white sand and warm water for sunbathing and swimming. At nearby Emberemi are the tombs of Sheikh el Amin and Muhammad ibn Ali, both major pilgrimage sites. At Emkulu there is a monument under construction for the EPLF fighters who died on the Salina salt flats in the 1977-78 battle for Massawa.
The road from Asmara to Massawa in Semhar province offers many scenic panoramas along its twists and turns. You can see Debre Bizen, the famous Orthodox monastery, from the road. You will pass through the town of Ghinda and a major citrus fruit production area.
Massawa is a magical city. Set on the edge of the arid plains at the foot of the Rift Valley escarpment it appears like a mirage, rising from the waters of the Red Sea, its long low skyline punctuated by domes and minarets and the tall masts of ships drifting on the horizon.
To enter the old city at night is to find oneself in a place of enchantment. The broad sweep of the white arcaded palazzi along the waterfront gives way to the narrow alleys and unpaved paths and piazzas where dim lights cast deep shadows occasionally illuminating a timbered upper room or courtyard. Outside the houses women with braided hair doze on their charpoys or sit serenely performing the ritual of the coffee ceremony. Children laugh and play around them while men stroll together and gather at the cafes on every corner. Everywhere there is the gentle hum of human voices and the sound of music, while the lights reflected in the water ripple and dance, enhancing the illusion that one has entered a scene from the Arabian Nights.
By day this illusion is harshly dispelled. The cruel evidence of the city's recent history is revealed. The dreadful damage inflicted by war has left almost no building undamaged or unscarred. Holes still gape in the walls of once grand buildings; pockmarks of shells pit the fine facades and delicate traceried balconies hang desperately from the walls of shattered houses.
Despite a vigorous programme of rebuilding and ambitious plans for the regeneration of the city, the area nearest the port that was most severely shelled, first by the Russians and then by the Ethiopians, is still largely in ruins.
Many of the domestic buildings, including the historic houses of Abu Hamdum and of Mammub Mohammed Nahari, close to the ancient tomb of Sheik Durbusc, are sadly dilapidated. The former Banco di Italia, a glorious combination of architectural styles that once dominated the harbour is now a skeleton, its main façade blasted and broken. Across the water on Taulud Island the previous Governor's Palace, built in the 19th century on the site of the original 16th century palace of Ozdemir Pasha, is shattered, its great dome cracked open like an egg.
Thirty years of war have left the city administration with enormous problems of reconstruction and redevelopment. Massawa's multiple role, as an important historical and cultural site, as a major port, as the regional capital and as the potential centre for the development of Eritrea's tourist trade, all pose particular challenges.
For centuries the city has been a centre of commerce, a vital conduit between countries boarding the Mediterranean, the Indian Ocean, the Red Sea and the inland African highlands. In the past its strategic location has exposed it to exploitation by foreign powers but now it has sovereignty for the first time in its long and remarkable history.

keren city

Keren (formerly Cheren) is the second largest city in Eritrea, lying north west of Asmara. It is the capital of the Anseba province and home of the Bilen tribe. As of 2005, the population of this city has been estimated to be 86,483.
The city grew around an Eritrean Railway to Asmara, now dismantled (although there are plans to rebuild). It is an important commercial centre and was the scene of regular battles in both World War II and the Eritrean War of Independence. Keren was the site of a key battle between Italian and British troops in 1941.
Attractions in the city include the Tigu nineteenth century Egyptian fort, the St Maryam Dearit chapel, lying in a baobab tree, the 1930s former railway station, the old mosque, Said Bakri Mausoleum, British Army and Italian Army cemeteries and local markets. The nearby sixth century Debre Sina monastery is known for its cave dwellings.
The town's outlying districts include:
Elabered
Hagaz
Halhal
Melbaso

Hagaz

Why did you wake up so early, Hansu asks. She thinks I should rest when having my holidays. I guess Hansu is used to the early morning conversation of the animals around her house, but I am not. Even before 5:00 dogs are barking, the cock is crying that the sun is rising, and sometimes one of the stupid beasts confuses the lights of a passing car for the rising sun in the middle of the night. So at 6:00 I usually wake up for the third or fourth time.
Hansu makes coffee and we eat some bread. She will go to her work, I will accompany her to the bus station for a short trip to Hagaz. A Toyota Van for twelve passengers, or more, if they are willing to carry their children on their lap, brings us to Hagaz, a small village between Keren and Agordat. The village is attractive with many traditional houses, a mosque, a very small Orthodox church a covered market and two hotels. Hagaz also has an agro-technical school and some agro-industrial activity.
I leave the main road to wonder in the direction of the hills on the north. Clusters of small houses are separated by wide open areas. There are no clearly defined streets, the area between the houses is used by herds of goats, cows, trucks, donkeys and camels. People sell fuel wood, fruits or vegetables. The village breaths coziness, but there is nothing that makes it really special, except of course the warmth of the ever-smiling people, always asking if everything is okay.
Children are following me and want to be on the pictures, jumping in front of me. "Sorana, sorana", they yell, which is Tigre for picture us. Just to please them I make a few pictures. They are happy andwant to shake hands.
The southern part of Hagaz is more compact. Small alleys, and a lot of trees. Open spaces are used to display all kinds of merchandize. No hamburgers, French fries, or hotdogs available in the fast food restaurants. Some cups of tea in one of the small tea shops, an egg burger and some fruit is my lunch.
After a few hours, I think I have seen it all and I find myself a mini bus to return to Keren. At the Keren checkpoint the military police recognizes me, so formalities can be reduced to "Hello, I am back from Hagaz, you will find my name and passport data in your log of this morning".
The rest of the afternoon I walk through the center of Keren. Owners of the many tailor shops ask me me come in and drink tea with them. They want to know where I have been, and what I think of Eritrea. And, if I have been to any other African country. I guess the are referring to Ethiopia.

keren city

Keren Eritrea - November 25th 2005



First reason to visit Keren is to bring a birth announcement card to the shrine of Mariam Dearit. Miracles happen. So I return to say "Thank You", on behalf of Deborah and her mother and ask the Holy Mary to take care of Deborah, so she can take care of her baby. I leave the card in front of the statue in the small chapel, a hollow tree, enough room to host several people. A miracle itself, that the tree survives in this condition.

When I walk away from the tree a woman calls me. She is from Germany and visiting her family from Agordat. I join her coffee ceremony with her father, her mother and her sister. We share our experiences and plans for the coming days. We share the food and the drinks we brought.

Hansu and Afworki are not in when I arrive at their house. But Tarig and Yohanna, two children of neighbor Kidane, hear me knocking and invite me in and make me a pot of tea. I have some rest until Hansu comes home and joins us.

The roads around her house are under construction. Many groves for a new sewerage will be a risk in the dark. I will sleep in a hotel. I choose the Yohannes Hotel. It is only for one night, so I prefer to stay close to the bus station, to have an early bus to Barentu tomorrow.

The rest of the day I spend walking through Keren, the center, remote suburbs, meeting people, until it is getting dark. Bar Estifanos has a nice terrace where you can sit outside and watch the street life in the center of Keren.

In the bar of the Yohannes Hotel I conclude the day with some double araki's, to make my blood useless to mosquito's (if there are any) and to assure a good nights rest.

gg